A Trip to Hell

There is Hell on Earth, and it is called Kibera.  I have spoken of Kibera before; it is the largest slum in Sub-Sahara Africa. Kibera is contained in a 1.2 sq. mile section of Nairobi (3 km from downtown), with reportedly over 1m residents.  There is very little infrastructure, and certainly no sanitation.  There are reports of improvement over the past few years, namely from flying to flushing toilets. For those not familiar, flying toilets are basically shared bags of human waste which when full, get thrown through the air and land where they may. Open sewers are the norm.  

50% Unemployment

20% of homes have electricity

Only two main water pipes for over 1m people 

Rampant cholera and typhoid

Rampant drug usage, sniffing glue, alcohol brew made with methane

Rampant violence, crime and rape

Reportedly 75% of residents are criminals

50% of girls between 16-25 are pregnant at any one time

As far as the government is concerned, Kibera does not exist, despite it's proximity in and around Nairobi.  One can only see this slum by air or in two separate, elevated new bypasses around the city.  One would not venture into Kibera unless they are residents or do humanitarian work throughout the slum.  There are numerous Kenyan NGO's (AMREF, MISF) with a large presence, as well as internationally supported medical clinics and schools.  Before I left for Kenya, I contacted an American organization/school based in NY, because I have read the Founder's story, and was intrigued. SHOFCO is supported by the First Lady of Kenya, Madonna and other celebrities. I made a promising connection which was not picked up on this side, as I was assured it would be. Two days after I arrived, I saw a local news clip about SHOFCO, only to find that they are under investigation by the IRS, for missing and misappropriating funds.  The Founders are under personal investigation for the huge monthly salaries they are taking. Nicholas Kristof from the NYT was here yesterday, visiting their site.  Whether he was here for an investigative report or a personal visit, I do not know. All I know is this is an ideal place to call home for an international charity.  Why?  Because few westerners, if any, will ever entertain the notion of entering Kibera for any reason other than carrying out humanitarian efforts.  Forget checking up on your charity of choice.  You may not get out alive. 

Kathy and I entered this Hell Thursday.  We were set to visit two schools, deliver recorders and Kathy would provide music instruction.  With a guide and our excellent driver (and companion) Joseph, I made the executive decision to turn around after about 700 meters into Kibera. I have been to Kibera before,  but not this particular area of the slum.  What we saw was and is difficult to put into words, much less wrap my brain around.  Extreme poverty, filth, desperation, overpopulation, visual contamination, physical horror, narrow "streets" more like paths and flowing septic just below the surface of the "street". One impassable "road" in and out.  Residents tracking our movement from every direction, with blatant opportunity in their eyes.  Every fiber of my being was on alert. I looked over at Kathy, both of us in tears. It was too much to process, I wanted out.  I have never felt my safety so compromised as I did yesterday, and after looking at Kathy, it was clear she felt the same way.  Cary said it best: "Mom, you have seen a lot.  I'm glad you're still able to make that call."

The Director of the schools we were to visit was completely understanding and apologetic, when I called to cancel the instruction.  "We drive in and out every day and are used to this. I'm so sorry, it's easy for us to forget."  Amen.  I won't forget this experience any time soon.

Moving on, we spent today on the second round of teaching at Tone La Maji, the Rescue Center for boys, in Rongai.. These boys were a great antidote to what we had been exposed to early in the morning.  In fact, these boys are former street children. They are loving, kind and barely let you get out of the car without gently taking your hand and leading you around the Center, which they are so proud of.  One is surrounded by gratitude and love.  I have so much respect for Jackline, the Director of Tone La Maji. She took this job, because she has a huge heart.  Because she, too, is an orphan, and a stranger changed her life.  For the better.

Needless to say, Jackline and I have much in common. Her husband and two daughters accept her passion and plight in this life to care for these boys and all others who will gradually be transitioned to this Home.  As the boys practiced with Kathy, Jackine and I opened our hearts to one another, practically tripping over each other to share our own gratitude towards our husbands, daughters and extended family; sharing everything we could in the two hours we had together.  She gave me much valuable information, while I shared local contacts and suggestions of my own. Jackline took these boys, practically feral upon their arrival and has transformed them personally, and given them hope.

                                            Practicing outside

Tone La Maji wiped away my tears.  It enabled me to momentarily put aside the horrors that I am still trying to process.  

Life is precious. In one instant, I was changed today.  And I'm happy to report, it is for the better.  

Lots of love from Kenya.. we are extremely busy, happy and tired. Kuchoka nayo!


                                           

                                             Tuonane baadaye,

                                             Simmie and Grace