The Bush

I put aside today as the day to travel 85km away, to visit Paul, the uncle of Simon and Moses.  Simon and Moses are two boys still at Nagolie who are deeply unhappy about my departure, and even more unhappy about the dire circumstances at the home.  Paul called me a few weeks back and asked me to come visit, so that we may discuss his offer to give me land to build another children's home.

85km doesn't sound too far away.  However, once we left the tarmac, the ride is 30km deep into the bush, making the one way journey 2.5 hours.  What a beautiful ride - I have done it once before, but today's trip was exceptional.  The rains have ceased here in Kenya, leaving behind their usual bursts of green savannas, seasonal flowers and breathtaking scenery.  

Once Tony and I arrived at Paul's village, we were greeted by at least 20 family members. Paul is the patriarch, with a bit of experience with NGO's (non government organizations) here in Kenya and in Tanzania.  He and his wife are responsible for Simon and Moses, a responsibility they both take very seriously.  In fact, both boys refer to their Aunt and Uncle as 'my mother and father'.  The greetings took about 15 minutes, and we were then led inside to take tea (milk) and eat choma.  I'm not a fan of goat meat, but this meat was exquisite.  The Maasai, a pastoralist tribe living in Kenya and Northern Tanzania, subsist mainly on milk, blood and meat. Remarkably, 2/3 of their calories come from fat. Yet despite their high cholesterol diet, they have very low rates of disease and as a rule, are very lean.  We sat down to eat perfectly charred goat, after a child came over to Tony and me with a large pot so that we could wash our hands. This is very traditional here in Kenya - place your hands over the pot, and warm water is poured over the hands for cleansing.  No soap is involved.  Tony and I looked at each other, grinning, as each of us were starved.  We demolished the entire pot between the two of us, eating with our fingers.

Meanwhile, the discussion between Tony, Paul and his wife, one brother and me was focused on the offer of land.  The county government had recently given their tribe nearly 70 acres of land.  The elders had gotten together and agreed to give me a small portion of this to build another home.  I expressed my gratitude and reiterated that I was deeply humbled by their generosity and faith in me to make such a grand offer.  As we chatted, I voiced my concern(s) that while opening a home is close to my heart, the distance from my current location would create a real struggle at this point in time. "We have just gotten off the ground and are not yet at capacity; my objective is to move slowly and concentrate on operations at their current level for at least 6 months, preferably one year."  "Yes, but we are talking at least three years out, after you are settled with WWC. We want you to expand," Paul said. We discussed my vision with WatotoWorld, fundraising techniques, community involvement, the need for medical care in the bush, education and maintenance of cultural norms.  I brought up the suggestion of a boarding school, centrally located within the confines of the reservation.  Boarding schools in Kenya are the norm, by the way.  They are not exclusive, unaccepted or out of the ordinary.  In fact, you will hear many Kenyans speaking of them as "the only way to go."  Most are single sex.  The men embraced this suggestion.  What was fascinating to me is every move we spoke of making was centered around the children. All children.  My experience with Maasai thus far has always been as such, but to discuss this first hand with tribal elders confirmed everything I knew: children come first.  Our conversation moved to international NGO's that offer assistance.  Local organizations that are willing to help - information I didn't have to dig for. It was all for the asking.  Finally, we came to the topic of Nagolie.  "What do you want us to do?" Paul asked.  "We need to protect the children.  The situation at the home is absolutely dismal. I was there yesterday, and there is no food.  The children are hungry, dirty and need help.  The home needs to be shut down - even if WWC does not get the kids?  The home STILL needs to shut down.  A tyrant is at the helm (and it is not Agnes).  

The children are suffering."  Paul offered to meet me at the Kajiado County Governor's office so that we could discuss the situation together. "Pole sana, I cannot be involved.  That will limit the results.  You must do this alone, preferably with additional guardians; bring the boys with you and insist on an impromptu inspection. Demand answers on where funding is coming from, why the environment is punitive, why the home is out of code, why the children are suffering, why school fees cannot be paid, why there is no medical attention and what is being done about it."  We all agreed this is the best approach. "Should you wish, I will guide you through the process from a distance."

Paul thanked Tony and me, and directed us outside in the shade, where Simon and Moses presented us with gifts.  Tony was given a beautiful bracelet, with particular colors and a specific design that indicates this particular tribe. "In case I get lost", he later laughed, "I can show my bracelet and be directed back here."  He was also given a fly swatter.  Not quite what we are used to, this beautiful piece has a beaded handle, with wildebeest hair at the end, to shoo flies away.  I was given a beautiful beaded belt for mamas, and a beaded cane.  I told Paul and his brothers that I will have to fake a limp at Nairobi Airport upon my departure. Otherwise, authorities will take the cane and send it through without any protection. I'll never see it again!!  Believe it, I will be limping on arrival :-)

Sho-Sho (grandmother) is 115 years old.  I was stunned to learn this.  She is strong, stubborn and doesn't let anyone help her move from spot to spot.

Simon, Mum and Moses

All the mums:

One 'shopping center' 30km off the tarmac:

…and the other, right next to it!

Tony and I headed home around 3:30.  It was a gloriously beautiful afternoon. I had the best time here, and felt really saddened to leave.  What a lovely experience, and even lovelier (large, extended) family.

I've seen camels in Kenya before, but this one came bounding out of the bush in a manner that really surprised me.  "Tony, stop!  I need a picture!"  From what I now understand, camels are raised in this region for meat and milk.  I'll pass.

Happy New Year to all from Kenya!  It was a remarkable day here, one I would repeat tomorrow, if this was how things worked.

Here's to a happy, healthy and prosperous 2014!

Habari ya mweka mpia!

Simmie, Simon and Moses